As a result of nature of real wooden such as oak this can be a living and breathing product. It will expand and contract depending on it is environment. A new wooden floor looks fantastic but it is always far better ensure it stays looking pristine for years to come. The way to do this is to make certain the preparation for putting the flooring is done correctly, together with a common knowledge of the small problems that can happen with real wood floors. contract flooring Dublin
Sound flooring tends to expand and contract. In summer, when the air is far more moist due to the house being aired more often – the boards dip up the extra dampness and tend to grow slightly. In winter, when central heating / underfloor heating are being used regularly, the air in the house is very dry therefore resulting in the panels drying and contracting – this often creates spaces appearing between boards – often large enough to put a coin between. These are harmless and disappear in the more comfortable months when heating is not used in the property as often.
When hard wood flooring gets wet or damp it absorbs the moisture and expands to accommodate this extra wetness. This can often happen even if the room will not feel damp or wet – the humidness in the air can also affect the floor. Before laying a wood floor in is essential to check that the room is dry and the sub floor consists of no extra moisture. This is also best to look into the moisture content of floors before installing. Even so the sub-floor is the main thing to evaluate before putting in as this will impact the floor in case it is not the correct moisture levels.
Where an existing wooden subfloor is present, this needs to be checked out for wet rot, dried rot and for woodworm. Although these are not commonplace it usually is best to check existing floors before laying down your new wood floors which can get ruined by corrosion or woodworm. It is always best to ensure that the existing panels are also securely fixed to the joists as they may cause creaking if not fitted well. Loose timber boards can be screwed down onto the joists – or additional noggins can be located between joists if an old board has recently been cut in the incorrect place and is loose.
When nailing down on to the existing flooring, the boards should be set at 90 degrees to the sub floor. This kind of ensures maximum stability and strength in the floor. (As an example look at a jenga game where all the blocks are located on top of the other person in the same way – it is quite unstable). If perhaps you are wanting the boards to be set in the same path as the sub floor a layer of particle board can be put and nailed or screwed down to ensure a secure fit of the new wood flooring.
You will discover additional precautions to take in which a screed or concrete sub-floor is present. New concrete dries at a rate of you inch a month or 1mm per day. Even though the concrete can look and feel dry to the touch, it could still contain more wetness than the recommended quantities for hardwood flooring. The simplest way to check is to use a moisture meter – this will provide you with an instant reading and let you know whether you need to let it stay to dry for much longer.
If the new real wood floor is an manufactured floor that has been placed as a floating floor then it is possible to lay an extra layer of damp confirmation membrane (DPM) over the concrete / screed to ensure no moisture grows to the wood floor however if the floor has been glued down to the subfloor or battened away it will not be possible to lay the DPM, however a liquid DPM or epoxy resin can be used to produce a liquid barrier instead. Because solid wood floors are recommended to be caught to the sub floor it is best to glue solid wood flooring surfaces down to the solid directly therefore it is essential that the water is checked before putting.